Living in Mombasa: an expat guide
What to expect when moving to Mombasa
Most people expect the tropical extravaganza of beautiful palm-lined beaches, coral reefs, and turquoise sea which attracts the bikini-clad brigades. But not everybody knows Mombasa has a predominantly Islamic culture with a separate history from the rest of Kenya, stretching back to the late 15th century when the first Portuguese explorers sailed up, and after two bloody centuries were finally driven out by the Arabs in 1729.
Over a hundred years later came the early missionaries and explorers, followed by the British who eventually succeeded in abolishing slavery and building the famous railway inland. However, it is the Arab influence that remains in evidence in many aspects of coastal culture and language (notably Kiswahili, Kenya’s lingua franca).
Its mix of locals, expats who’ve stayed on, new arrivals, and tourists makes Kenya’s coast an excitingly diverse and cosmopolitan place to live.
Where to live in Mombasa
West of the island is the industrial area and the airport, connected by a bridge.
To the north, Nyali bridge connects Mombasa to what is referred to as ‘the north coast’ (although all of Kenya’s coast is actually on the east of the country). Just north of Mombasa is the up-market suburb of Nyali. A little further north is Shanzu, and further north again is Mtwapa creek. This is a busy part of the coast with a north-bound road running parallel to the beaches, chock-a-block with tourist hotels, restaurants, and shopping centres until you cross Mtwapa bridge, where the surroundings become less built up until you reach Malindi, 80 miles north of Mombasa.
Driving from Mombasa to Mtwapa can take anything from 20 minutes to several hours depending on Mombasa’s unpredictable traffic jams which can be caused by anything from an accident or breakdown to police checks. It is only a 300-mile drive from Nairobi, but don’t imagine anything like European or American roads and the preferable option is probably to fly from Nairobi to Moi International Airport.
Meanwhile to the south of Mombasa the Likoni Ferry connects the island to what is called ‘the south coast’. Kenya’s South coast also has lovely beaches (including the famous Diani beach) but is generally felt to be sleepier (apart from Diani). Those who live on the south coast fiercely defend it, although notably few commute to work in Mombasa as the ferry service, which usually runs between one and three ferries, can involve a hot, sticky wait of anything between a few minutes (if you are unusually lucky) and hours. And few ferries run late at night so you need to time it right if you’re returning from sampling Mombasa’s vibrant nightlife.
Day-to-day living in Mombasa
Mombasa is built on an island which means its roads, heavily lined with buildings, aren’t destined for any expansion to ease the rapidly increasing volume of traffic. Everything moves at a slower, sleepier pace here anyway, and newcomers are wise if they quickly adjust to this and cease to be in a hurry — ever!
Driving
Nairobi driving is alarming but in Mombasa, it stretches one’s vocabulary of expletives to new limits. The necessary skills for driving in Mombasa (aggression and eyes in the back of your head) should be acquired pronto. The roads are rough with dusty diversions alternating with a moonscape of broken tarmac and potholes. Add to this the terrors of alternative Kenyan driving styles, and avoiding those thundering buses and trucks whose drivers have their own codes of road discourtesy (something to do with size equalling power).
Meanwhile, if you choose to taxi, fearless local taxi drivers (or navigators of the open, three-wheeled tuk-tuks) can perform manoeuvres you never dreamed of and rocket your adrenalin to awesome heights.
The last word
It’s not only the roads that are challenging — add to this the humid heat by day and infestations of malaria-bearing mosquitoes invading your space by night, poisonous snakes and two months of torrential rain in May and June, you wonder how any foreigners survive. But there are plenty who do and make the most of the coast’s great fishing, diving, and kite-surfing, not to mention the golf, all the great restaurants, and places to entertain the kids at weekends from crocodile farms to water parks.
With good hospitals (including the excellent Aga Khan Hospital) and shopping malls (mainly on the north coast) and of course, so many great beaches you’re spoiled for choice, it’s little wonder really that those who live on the coast love it. Its mix of locals, expats who’ve stayed on, new arrivals, and tourists makes Kenya’s coast an excitingly diverse and cosmopolitan place to live.
